This week, I worked out how to re-install a Flobeam assembly into a vintage Premier 2000 snare drum. Having already figured an effective way to do it on my wrapped, “#2” snare – I’m now in a good place to re-fit the same, into my restored, “#1”.
I’ll go through exactly the same process in this post – but there’s little point writing the whole thing up all over again. If you want a more detailled, step-by-step description – check out my original post here.
Most of the Flobeam components were recently stripped from the same drum, although I’ve swapped a couple of things around – mostly to match visible components, like the dampener adjustment knob, with others in a similar condition. Everything’s been given a clean over where appropriate. Old lubricants wiped off – metal parts wiped clean – plastic parts washed in soap and water…
First – the internal end blocks are fitted, with their slightly curved shim pieces helping to provide a good, solid support.
Next – the beam components are threaded together. The main beam has had the “removeable” push rod removed, so the beam can be threaded through the shell – inside to out, at that side. This then allows the end with the remaining push rod, (the lever end) to be manouevred into position, pulled back, and then pushed through its’ own end block. I’ve lubricated the cams, and the portions of the main beam which will slip through the end blocks, with some Silicone grease.
The “removeable” push rod, (it’s the one without the thick, black, plastic washer on one side of the beam), has been carefully set aside. The original “star” push-clip washers on these are a complete pain to work with – especially with my eyesight, and my large-ish fingers. On the previous build – I re-appropriated one of the original silver circlips from the other side of the black plastic washers, and I’ve been searching for a supply of replacements. I finally found that a standard 3.2mm circlip just about does the job. I’ve still to test the clip under the vibration of actual playing – but a circlip like this is so much easier to manipulate, and push into place. (Needle-nosed pliers make it a much less fiddly operation). The circlips cost literally pennies, and are DINN6799 “C” clips. The central opening dimension is 3.2mm, the diameter is 7.0mm, and the thickness is 0.6. These dims. don’t quite match my own caliper-measurments of an original, Premier circlip, (3.0mm, 7.7mm, 0.63mm), but the replacement clips are the only ones I can find with standard measurements – imperial or metric – that come anywhere close. If you’re following my lead – they make re-assembly a breeze – but note – they still need testing under actual playing conditions.
The “removeable” push rod is clipped back into place on the main Flobeam, and then the cam pieces are threaded along, right to the ends of the top beam as it’s manouevred into position. As the cams are pushed into place on the end blocks, the hooked ends of the push rods are hooked onto the cams, so that they’re “captured”. The same at both sides of the Flobeam…
The leaf springs, (two per block), are installed on either side of the rotating cams. The cover plates are slid into place and secured with three screws. Again – same at both ends of the Flobeam…
Once secure – the Flobeam operation is tested. It’s smooth, and when the cams are engaged – there’s no “travel” in the system at all.
The dampener mechanism has been replaced with one in slightly better condition than the original. (The external adjustment knob on the original is a bit gnarly, and the attachment screw is a little rusted. After cleaning – the original found it’s way onto my #2, “wrapped” snare).
Finally – the dampener mechanism is attached, adjusted and tightened, so that the dampener head is held secure – just below the level of the bearing edge.